Chemical Peels and Retinoids
Chemical peels and retinoid products are used for the purpose of skin exfoliation, and are not to be used for rosacea. The skin needs to be 'intact' and not to be further aggravated by any chemical or mechanical peels of the below listed means. The objective is to help your body get rid of dead skin cells and to make your body build new skin quicker. Various products available today such as Retin-A, Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), and glycolic acid are all designed to burn dead skin cells off. The active agent in all these products is fruit acids.
The problem with using fruit acids such as AHA and BHA is that either you get acids that are very weak that do not remove many dead skin cells and therefore you see little results, or they increase the strength of the acid, and once the acid has burned through the dead cells, it continues on and begins to attack your living skin. If this happens you may experience one or more of the following; burning, redness, irritation and light sensitivity. Another problem with using acids is that the dead cells do not come off immediately; your skin gets white, flaky, and tight as the dead cells fall off over the course of a few days. Using acids is not only uncomfortable; but it can at times do more damage than good.
Alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids are simple organic fruit acids found in nature or synthesized in the laboratory. Beta Hydroxy acids are somewhat different from alpha hydroxy acids in their structure and mode of action. Salicylic acid, a common beta hydroxy acid, has been used for treating acne for decades. In fact, acne treatment remains the primary use for beta hydroxy acids. There are no studies showing that beta hydroxy acids are superior or even equal to alpha hydroxy acids in skin exfoliation or reducing fine wrinkles however for acne, beta hydroxy acids are clearly superior to alpha hydroxy acids.
Over the last decade, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) have increasingly appeared as ingredients in cosmetics intended to reduce the signs of aging in the skin. More recently, beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), or a combination of AHAs and BHAs, have appeared as ingredients in these skin care products. While both AHAs and BHAs act as exfoliants, it has been claimed that BHAs are effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improving overall skin texture, without the occasional irritation associated with the use of AHAs.
BETA HYDROXY ACIDS
Beta Hydroxy Acid or BHA is a derivative of aspirin and is often used in skin care products to accelerate skin cell turnover and help clear pores. It can penetrate more deeply than Alpha Hydroxy Acid and is gentler.
Beta Hydroxy Acid is salicylic acid. This occurs in nature in sweet birch and in wintergreen leaves. Its effect on the epidermis and upper dermis are similar to those of Retin-A, but with less irritation. It is soluble in oil and can exfoliate oily skin areas, even within oil-rich pores. Therefore, it has a beneficial effect on acne, pigmentary disturbances, and sun damaged skin. Because it does exfoliate, use of sun protection is needed.
BHA ingredients may be listed on packaging inserts as:
- Salicylic acid
- Salicylate
- Sodium salicylate
- Willow extract
- Beta hydroxybutanoic acid
- Tropic acid
- Trethocanic acid
Currently, the most commonly used BHA in cosmetics is salicylic acid. On rare occasions, citric acid is also listed as a BHA in cosmetic formulations; although, citric acid is more commonly considered to be an AHA.
The long-term safety of salicylic acid in cosmetics is being evaluated in studies initiated by FDA and sponsored by the National Toxicology Program. These U.S. government-sponsored studies are examining the long-term effects of both glycolic acid (an AHA) and salicylic acid on the skin's response to ultraviolet (UV) light. These studies have determined that applying glycolic acid to the skin can make people more susceptible to the damaging effects of the sun, including sunburn.
Until these safety assessments are completed, FDA advises that similar precautions be taken for the use of cosmetics containing AHAs and BHAs. These precautions are:
Test any product that contains a BHA on a small area of skin before applying it to a large area. If you use cosmetics with BHAs and experience skin irritation or prolonged stinging, stop using the product and consult your physician.
Follow the use instructions on the label. Do not exceed the recommended applications.
Avoid using BHA-containing products on infants and children.
Use sun protection if you use a BHA product.
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